This walk leads to a glacier that is relatively little known (compared with true celebrities such as the Roseg or the Morteratsch) but full of atmosphere. The route is very long (about 10km, gaining a mere 750 metres in roughly 4 hours), but it is punctuated by points of natural interest: first the Lago di Cavloc, then the Forno Glacier, and finally the glacial landscape that accompanies us on the spectacular climb to the mountain hut. Given the walking times and the protected sections between the glacier and the hut, the route is recommended for suitably fit experienced hikers.
By car we take the narrow road that branches off the last hairpin of the Maloja road, and park in the large car park (m1790). On foot we follow the dirt road to the Lago di Cavloc (you can shorten it a little by taking the path). On the way we pass Alpe Salecina, a sort of hotel and hostel with a programme of cultural events, where each guest pays what they can, choosing between full price, a reduced rate or, rather remarkably, a "solidarity" rate.
After an obligatory stop at the lake (m1907, 45 minutes), which is of fairy-tale beauty, we continue almost on the level up the long valley to Plan Canin (m1992), where we join the path coming down from the Passo del Muretto, the link with Chiareggio and the Valmalenco. The path becomes monotonous until we reach another small bridge (m2232, 1.45 hours), from which we finally see the fine Forno Glacier. We reach its snout, which once had to be climbed with the help of some entertaining ropes.
Across scree we reach a vertical ladder, where the beautiful, recently restored path begins; with short protected and slightly airy sections it leads to the panoramic terrace of Capanna del Forno (m2574, 1 hour). The Forno Glacier calls to mind the long glacier tongues of the Himalaya, while the curtain of vertical rock walls of the Pizzi Torrone and the Cima di Castello, together with the sharp pinnacle of the Ago del Torrone, make us feel as if we were standing before Fitz Roy.
On the way back you can lengthen the route slightly by climbing further behind Capanna del Forno to a small lake at the foot of the Pizzi dei Rossi (m2728, 45 minutes). From there we curve towards the Muretto valley and rejoin the outward path near Plan Canin (m1992, 1.45 hours).
If there is any energy left, at the Lago di Cavloc (m1907, 30 minutes) we can stay high above the valley by taking the path on the left of the lake and following the Sentiero dei Contrabbandieri (Smugglers' Path), with information panels on the history of smuggling between Italy and Switzerland in the 19th and 20th centuries (45 minutes).
