Right above Montreux, on Lake Geneva, rises the Rochers de Naye, a 2000-metre pillar of rock. But on its top a landscape of an entirely different kind opens up: a grassy plateau, rimmed by a circle of rounded peaks that then drop vertically to the plain around.
Already interesting for its landforms, the Rochers de Naye also boasts one of the best views of Lake Geneva / Lac Léman, and a little rack railway that runs almost to the top.
We start from the Col de Jaman (1512m) because the ascent route from there is every bit as spectacular as the views from the summit; you can, however, shorten the hike by taking the train for part of the way, for example from Caux to the summit, or from the Jaman mountain station.
Best to save this hike for a day of clear skies, when the views stretch over Lake Geneva and across the mountains as far as the Grand Combin and the Eiger.
We recommend walking the loop anticlockwise, so as to tackle a stretch of chains and ladders going up rather than coming down.
Ascent: to the Grottes de Naye and the Rochers de Naye
We start from the Col de Jaman (1512m). It is reached by a very narrow road with few passing places. At the col there is a large free car park, with a café-restaurant (which we found closed) and a chalet selling cheese and cured sausages.
From the col we take the dirt road that descends in a traverse east of the col. Then, in hairpins and bends, it starts climbing through a pretty little wood, passes a chalet with a wooden roof, and brings us to a junction where we turn left onto a path that leads, almost level, to a fine jagged notch (there is also a faint path that climbs directly to the notch).
We are at the foot of the vertical cliff of the Rochers de Naye, which we will get round first on the left by a fine protected path, and then on the right by an ordinary path. There is also a Via Ferrata (grade D/E, very difficult) that climbs the cliff by the most direct line.
From the notch we can already see the “ladder path” that awaits us, marked by a long iron staircase and by a few short stretches with chains higher up. This section is exposed, but almost entirely equipped with chains. Good shoes and some mountain experience are needed.
At the foot of the staircase we find the first (and narrowest) of 3 entrances to the Grottes de Naye, a system of passages some thirty metres long, partly equipped inside.
We take the dizzying ladder (halfway up we find another entrance to the cave system) and then continue with chains and more short ladders until we top out, gaining the ridge that will lead us to the summit of the Rochers de Naye.
There follow 45 spectacular minutes on an easy path along the grassy crests of the Rochers de Naye, which plunge vertically beneath us, to the top of the via ferrata, and on to the summit of the Rochers de Naye (2042m), with incredible views over Lake Geneva and an arc of mountains behind us.
Below the summit, a large grey building with a broad terrace and the railway's upper station.
Descent: from the Rochers de Naye to the Col de Jaman
For the descent we complete the loop on a panoramic traverse along a wide path to a notch with a little house with a view (Sautodoz, 1790m). From there we skirt a rocky spur of the mountain, following its base. We climb gently to a broad grassy shoulder dominated by the railway line near the La Perche stop, and descend again, with spectacular views, first on a path and then on a wide mule track that takes us all the way back to the Col de Jaman.
