There is something unreal about the Val Ferret and the Val Veny. Two straight, perfectly symmetrical furrows that frame the rock wall of Monte Bianco. Closing off these two valleys is a curtain of peaks that offer incredible views of the Monte Bianco massif.
One of these peaks is Monte Fortin, relatively little known but well worth it for its easy access, and because it sits exactly opposite the valley of the Miage Glacier, offering perhaps the best view of it.
By car we can continue as far as the car park at Visaille. For some years now, in July and August, access to the Visaille car park has been allowed only until it is full. From Visaille (m1659) we face 3km of tedious dirt road, in the company of a noisy crowd of tourists, hikers and cyclists.
When we finally reach the start of Lago Combal, near a small bridge, we can choose to make a half-hour detour to the nearby Lago del Miage (m2019, 1.30 hours), packed with tourists for the beauty of the wall of ice (the Miage Glacier) that closes the lake on its northern side. Being in contact with the glacier, the lake changes over time along with it: for example, it had almost completely emptied between 2012 and 2015, filling up again in 2018.
Back at the little bridge, we cross it and shortly afterwards find a turning on the left: we leave the dirt road that runs on the level to Rifugio Elisabetta, a road we will take on the way back, and climb steeply towards Monte Fortin. As we gain height the view keeps getting better; soon we can see the whole Miage valley. We pass the lower Arp Vieille, continuing first through flowery meadows and then over increasingly steep stony ground. After many hairpins we reach the broad summit of Monte Fortin (m2758, 2 hours).
On the wide summit plateau we find the remains of an old military barracks, the Ricovero Maggiore Sonza. What we enjoy from the Fortin is one of the most incredible views of the Monte Bianco group; added to this is an impressive view down onto Lago Combal below and the road running beside it, travelled by tiny black dots. As we wander inside the barracks, the doors and windows frame the surrounding snowy peaks, offering views like no other.
For the descent we can make the traverse to the Col de Chavannes, from where we drop down to the Elisabetta and from there to Visaille. For this route, we descend from the Fortin on its W side and cross the wide meadows at the foot of Monte Percè. Few hikers come this far, and the marmots feel free to roam these meadows without too many worries.
From the Col de Chavannes (m2603, 1 hour) we descend steeply into the Vallone della Lex Blanche along a fine zigzag path. Once on the valley floor, we climb the opposite slope for about ten minutes to reach Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini (m2197, 1 hour) below the Lex Blanche Glacier. From here 7/8 km of dirt road await us to get back to Visaille (m1659, 1.30 hours).
