The Monte Avic Natural Park, in the lower Aosta Valley, is famous for a constellation of crystal-clear lakes, crowned by views of the distant Monte Bianco and Monte Rosa.
One of the best-known hikes in the Monte Avic Natural Park is the one to Rifugio Barbustel and the lakes around it, set in an open larch wood reminiscent of the wild nature parks of North America. Although Rifugio Barbustel lies in the Valle di Champdepraz, most people reach it from the Valle di Champorcher instead, where the starting point is higher (about 1750 m, instead of the 1250 m of Covarey, the starting point in the Valle di Champdepraz).
Having parked in one of the car parks near Alpe Cort (1760 m), we start climbing alongside the outflow of Lago Muffé, keeping close to its waters and hopping from the true left to the true right bank, accompanied by a fine wood of fir and larch.
When the conifers thin out and the path levels off, we spot the hut of the Bar Ristoro Muffé, a few metres from the clear waters of Lago Muffé (2080 m, 50 minutes). The short walk, the altitude, the crystal-clear and not too cold lake (ideal for a swim) and the beauty of the hut make this an ideal (and very popular) destination for young families.
We, however, carry on towards the Col Lago Bianco (2309 m, 40 minutes), winding across a plateau dotted with scattered larches. At the pass we cross over into the Valle di Champdepraz and in a few minutes reach Rifugio Barbustel (2205 m, 15 minutes).
At Rifugio Barbustel we find a similar landscape, with scattered larches that offer glimpses of turquoise lakes, and the snowy peaks of Monte Rosa on the horizon. Here we can spend the afternoon with a swim in Lago Bianco or Lago Nero, or a stroll to the viewing terrace a few metres north of the hut, which looks out over the Monte Rosa group.
To get back to the car, we follow the same path from Rifugio Barbustel to Cort (1.30 hours), via the Col Lago Bianco and the Bar Ristoro at Lago Muffé.
For those who want a longer route, from Rifugio Barbustel the hike can be extended to the Gran Lago, or turned into a much (much) longer loop that takes in the Gran Lago, Lago di Mezove, Col Fussi (and Monte Glacier) and Rifugio Dondena, before returning to Cort through the Valle di Champorcher.
